BREGUET, REF. 3657, GRANDE COMPLICATION, TOURBILLON, POWER RESERVE, RETROGRADE 24-HOUR, PLATINUM
ICONEEK price: 42’000.- CHF
When speaking about tourbillon watches, one word comes immediately in mind: Breguet. Also called the « The watchmaker of the kings, the king of the watchmakers », Abraham Louis Breguet is considered as the most talented watchmaker all time. This genius created, among others, the mechanism of tourbillon in « 7 Messidor An 9 », June 1801, shortly after the french revolution, when the gregorian calendar was no more in use. A revolutionary time keeper made during a « revolutionary time ». Iconeek is very proud to introduce here one of the Grande Complication of the current collection: The Tourbillon Power Reserve.
The Tourbillon is probably Breguet most eye’s catching and spectacular complication. Depending on the position of the balance (horizontal or vertical), the watch takes advance or is late on the period because of the gravity. To compensate gravity effects, A.L Breguet had the brilliant idea to house the balance and escapement in a revolving cage (whereas in a standard mechanical watch, the escapement is fixed, and it is impossible to regulate it to keep the exact same rate no matter which position that watch is in). The whole assembly constantly moving, no matter what position the watch is in, timing variations are essentially canceled out.
Trained eyes will recognized that the present model is the « big » sister of the previous ref. 3650, from the 1990s, but also an improved version of the first ref. 3657 from the mid-1990s. If the dial layout remains the same, with the visible one-minute tourbillon at 6, Breguet manufactory was smart enough to bring new developments on this one. Connoisseurs will then notice that the power reserve indication is no more graduated to 42 hours (first ref 3657 delivered see Breguet catalog 2000 on the side, or 50 hours, later on, but has now to 55 hours indication, may be thanks to its new escapement. The readability on the 24-hour sector was also changed for a more « airy » one.
The platinum circular case has now a 39 mm. diameter to fit actual tastes, and is now water-resistant to 3 bars (30m). The new size allows to have a larger dial and improve the already very good readability. The model has a rounded snap bezel, a coin-edge band, a snap on transparent case back to see the movement. The case is also set with straight lugs and gold screwed bars to hold the bracelet. Under the sapphire crystal glass, a superb and attractive hand-guilloche silvered dial, on a gold plate, with off center dial for the time with radial Roman numerals on a silvered chapter ring, two fan-form sectors for the power reserve and retrograde 24-hour indications, the famous blued steel Breguet hand. With its perfectly balance dial, where every indication has a place and where hands crossing are avoid, the watch has an inimitable look, in the typical manner of Breguet’s pocket watches.
Visible through the sapphire case back, a caliber 560, finely engraved, mechanical movement, hand wound, with 24 jewels, one minute tourbillon carriage combined with seconds, adjusted to 6 positions, visible through an aperture in the silvered engine-turned dial, self-compensating Breguet hairspring, right angle lever escapement, and engraved « Brevet du 7 Messidor An 9 » and « 1916 ». Case, dial and movement are signed. This wristwatch comes with a leather strap and a platinum Breguet deployant clasp. The retail price was approx. 120’000.- CHF at the time.
A timeless masterpiece, all A.L.Breguet’s genius concentrated in 39 mm.!
Condition: 8.5/10, in very good overall condition
Model: 3657 Tourbillon
Year : circa 2010
Movement no.: 2910
Case no.: 1851S
Dial: silvered on a gold plate, hand guilloche, blued steel Breguet hands
Mouvement: Cal. 560.1, manual winding, 24 jewels
Bracelet: leather strap with platinum Breguet deployant clasp
Functions: tourbillon, retrograde power reserve indication, retrograde 24-hour indication
Water-resistant: yes, tested
Diameter: 39 mm. Thickness: 10.20 mm.
Accessories: presentation box and outer packaging
Ref. ICO.: 99-19-025